Location: Cavalese - Castello - Daiano and return to Cavalese
Duration: 2 days
Total length: 20 km
Recommended period: spring and autumn
A splash of colour and a scent of nature along the edge of the woods of the officially titled Magnificent Community of Fiemme, seasoned with genuine flavours which manage to combine tradition and innovation in a range of exquisite culinary delights.
This circuit route which both departs and arrives at the charming town of Cavalese brings us on a tasty tour of the surrounding mountain farms where we’ll be welcomed by the sweet scent of hay and wake up to the aroma of freshly baked cakes and biscuits. From cheeses to speck, from craft beer to the renowned “torta de frati 'mbriaghi”, literally “cake of the drunken friars”, we’ll get to know the magnificent Val di Fiemme and the products it has to offer along the way.
The chances are we’ll become so fond of the dishes that we’ll find it hard to live without them!
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We start off from the town park of Pieve in Cavalese, taking the shared cycle and pedestrian path named “Vecchia Ferrovia” which, as the original name suggests, follows the old rail track towards Castello di Fiemme. This route takes you through some fascinating old tunnels and offers some truly splendid views of the valley.
We continue into the old town centre of Castello di Fiemme which stretches out around the church of San Giorgio (St. George) which dominates the entire valley from a wooded outcrop. From here we continue until we reach our first stop, the Agritur Maso Corradini farmhouse. Here, at the right time of year, we find ourselves immersed in a realm of berries and forest fruits, especially raspberries. Depending on the time of our arrival, we can choose between a mouth-watering brunch of waffles, apple pie, muffins, tarts but also boiled eggs and farmhouse bacon, or a traditional lunch, where the formidable cook magically transforms quality products into exquisite dishes, to be enjoyed slowly while sitting in the ancient wooden “stube”, a traditional farmhouse kitchen, or out in the garden soaking up the views and fresh air. For a more complete experience, either before or after our meal, it’s possible to visit the farm and cowshed with an orienteering course devised by the landlord, and orienteering champion, Nicola Corradini.
Soon it’s time to get back on the road and head towards the Brozin biotope, a protected area. Along the way we can stop at the “Dolci sapori del Bosco” apiary and stock up on some of the valley’s exquisite honey. Here during the summer it’s also possible to book a guided tour and tasting session.
All along the loop trail that, through a patchwork of buzzing meadows and shady forests, encompasses this splendid natural reserve, a series of signs and information boards will help us discover the wealth of this natural environment and its flora and fauna.
From here we take off again for a short walk towards the Agritur Maso Pertica farmhouse, the last stop of the day. Immersed in a magnificent natural setting with fantastic views across the Val di Fiemme, the warm welcome and refreshing hospitality of Marina and Alberto, with their children Beatrice, Veronica, Nicolò and of course grandfather Giuseppe, are sure to make us feel at home.
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We’re all up bright and early the next morning and after a hearty breakfast at the Maso Pertica farmhouse, we set off again, returning in the direction of the Brozin biotope reserve and then taking the shared cycle and pedestrian path in the direction of Aguai. Once we arrive at this small hamlet, we follow the paved road for a short stretch towards the Cela locality, paying attention to vehicle traffic.
Once we reach Cela, we can take the path through the woods that leads us to the splendid Cascatelle di Carano waterfalls, crossing wooden bridges, skipping over streams and generally getting into full contact with the surrounding nature. Our next stop is Tito - Il Maso dello Speck, a farmhouse specialised in speck, a traditional smoked ham, and other local delicacies. To get there from the waterfalls we can choose from a number of possible routes, we just need to pay attention to the signs and maybe remember to download the desired itinerary before departure. If in doubt, we can always go to the Calvello campsite, not far from the trailhead, to ask for information and maybe get directions.
Once at the Maso dello Speck farmhouse, we can tuck into a well-deserved lunch of excellent local dishes and mouth-watering platters of cured meats and cheese. Furthermore, for an unparalleled view across the Lagorai chain and the rolling green meadows of the Val di Fiemme, we can enjoy our meal on the new veranda perhaps with a glass fresh craft beer, bearing in mind that the very first “Birra di Fiemme” brewery was located not far from here. Having eaten, we lace up our hiking boots and, before returning to the village of Daiano, we make our way towards the “Bosco Nascosto”, literally “Hidden Wood”, themed trail dedicated to the forest and its animals. Along the way we first come across the “Colonia Pavese”, a former summer camp which was then converted into a factory for the production of optical military instruments during the Second World War, and finally the old bakery near Croda castle.
We carry on in the direction of Varena. When we arrive we head towards the main square where we’ll find the Dagostin butcher's shop, a historic establishment and producer of the finest “lucanica” salami of the entire valley (and probably beyond), a version of which is also prepared using goat’s meat. Not far from the church Dei Santi we find the entrance to the Spianez Walk, a completely sun-kissed trail offering enchanting views across the towns and hamletss of the lower Val di Fiemme. We then continue along the forest road until we return to our starting point, the town of Cavalese, passing an exceptional panoramic point (and photo opportunity!) along the way: the Pagoda.
We reach our destination just in time for an afternoon snack and so we stop off at the pastry shop Cose Buone da Paolo, where we’re sure to be enraptured by the enveloping aroma before even entering the door! From there it’s worth taking a stroll around the town centre of Cavalese and do some sight-seeing. The palazzo and townhall of the “Magnifica Comunità” is a must-see, a thousand-year-old building whose frescoed halls now house an art gallery and an archive of important manuscripts, statutes and other written documents referring to the long and intriguing history of the Fiemme valley.
Finally, it’s time to relax and we move towards the Agritur Pianrestel farmhouse. Here, Marilena and her family know exactly how to pamper their guests and we can all enjoy a well-deserved and regenerating break in the small but cosy wellness area. Later, we can treat ourselves to a home-cooked dinner based on typical Trentino dishes and products before making our way to bed, tired but happy, for some welcome sleep.
Before leaving the valley we have time to make one last stop, by car this time, at the Val di Fiemme Caseificio or Dairy. Here we can stock up on a wide range of delightful local dairy products from fresh milk to mature cheeses such as the Formae Val di Fiemme and Trentingrana.
If, on the other hand, we still have a bit of energy left in our legs, we can take a walk as far as the new AgriBirrificio di Fiemme brewery in the hamlet of Masi di Cavalese where, surrounded by fields of hops, we can discover the secrets behind this ancient craft beer and maybe enjoy a delicious sandwich or salad before setting off again and concluding our tour.
Before leaving:
- We recommend you book all your meals and overnight stays before departure.
THE 10 RULES FOR A DAY IN THE MOUNTAINS
1. Be prepared. Plan and double-check your itinerary before setting out.
2. Know your limits. Choose a route that is suitable to your physical and technical abilities.
3. Bring suitable clothing and equipment.
4. Check the weather forecast before leaving.
5. Taking off alone is risky, make sure you bring a mobile phone with you.
6. Find a place to leave information regarding your itinerary and estimated time of return.
7. If you’re not sure about your excursion, do not hesitate to contact a professional.
8. Pay great attention to the signposts and other indications you pass along the way.
9. If you’re feeling tired or unable to go on for whatever reason, don’t think twice about turning back.
10. In case of an accident contact the emergency number 112.
As you can imagine, the accessibility of mountain itineraries depends on a number of conditions, such as the weather and the time of year, not to mention any number of abrupt environmental changes and natural phenomena. For this reason, the information presented here may have changed since writing so it’s extremely important to gather information concerning the current conditions of the route before setting off by contacting a local mountain hut, the mountain guides, the visitor centres of the natural parks or the local tourist office.
Trekking is fun but also challenging. We recommend you only take the bare necessities with you but don’t forget to bring proper hiking footwear and trekking poles. Ideally, your backpack should weigh about 6kg.